New York Jazz Workshop goes to Brazil
We had a fantastic time in Brazil. It was a first for the New York Jazz Workshop to hold a workshop there. Our group included the two NYJW co-founders (that’s me, Marco Chelo, and my business partner, Marc Mommaas), our vocal instructor Jocelyn Medina, and three other participants: drummer Charlie Caldarola, vocalist Flavia Nunez, and moth curator Suzanne Rust.
We were hosted by ICBIE (Instituto Cultural Brasil Italia Europa), a wonderful organization that provides educational services to the Ribeira community. They have a setup with 9 rooms, capable of hosting more than 15 people.
Day 1: Arrival
After landing in Salvador De Bahia, the drive from the airport to Ribeira took us through stunning bamboo forests that lined the streets, instantly wrapping us in the warmth and ambiance of a tropical paradise.
Upon our arrival at ICBIE, we were warmly greeted by Roy Zimmerman, a close friend and an accomplished composer of contemporary music who has called Bahia his home for the past 15 years. Marlene Sousa, the director of ICBIE, was incredibly welcoming. She took us on a tour, showing us the courtyard, the library, the spacious kitchen, the hammocks on the terrace, and our rooms.
For our welcome dinner, we were treated to a traditional Bahian feast at ICBIE, prepared by the remarkable chef Krystal Palace, who was completing a research project at ICBIE during our stay.
Day 2: Introduction to Afro-Brazilian Culture
In the morning, after enjoying a delightful breakfast filled with fruits, eggs, coffee, and more, we met with our guide, Paco Gomes. Paco, a renowned choreographer and historian of Afro-Brazilian culture, led us on an insightful visit to Cidade de Musica. There, we delved into the audiovisual history of Brazilian music, tracing its journey from Pixinguinha to contemporary times. The exhibition, “The City of Salvador and Its Music,” showcased the musical heritage of the city’s neighborhoods, presenting stories, testimonials, and emerging trends through a dynamic blend of audiovisual tools, including an interactive model, three large projection screens, consultation stations, and a studio for recording testimonials.
Next, we made our way to Casa Do Carnaval by taking an elevator that bridges the lower and upper parts of Bahia. Casa do Carnaval offers a visual and sensory exploration of the carnival’s history, highlighting various thematic elements that are fundamental to popular culture, societal shifts, and the shaping of Bahian identity. We enjoyed a wonderful lunch on the terrace. In the afternoon, we strolled through the streets of Pelourinho, topping off the day with a delightful aperitif accompanied by a beautiful view. Our day concluded back at ICBIE, where we had dinner and shared reflections on our experiences.
Day 3: Beach Day
On Monday, Charlie and I made our way to the beach to purchase some fresh fish directly from the fishermen. Afterwards, the entire group set off to explore the Itapagipe Peninsula. We visited Boa Viagem Beach for a swim and lunch, followed by a walk to the Fort of Mont Serrat, the Church of Bonfim, and Ponta do Humaitá, and then journeyed back to ICBIE on foot, taking in the sights of the city along the way. For dinner, we grilled the fish I had bought in the morning. After dinner, we ventured to the lovely neighborhood of Rio Vermelho to enjoy a wonderful Chorinho concert at Varanda do Sesi. Jocelyn had connections with some of the musicians, and we spent time hanging out with them after the concert.
Day 4: Food and Local Cuisine
Tuesday morning took us to the incredible Feira de São Joaquim, a lively market with an incredible assortment of foods and staples. We found shrimps in every imaginable size and color, fresh fruits and vegetables, as well as livestock and meat displayed in a manner that was, frankly, a bit graphic. From hooves to heads, tongues, livers, kidneys, tails, and more, it seemed like everything was for sale—and edible. For those unaccustomed to such sights, it was a bit shocking, yet the culinary enthusiasts among us were absolutely thrilled by the diverse range of products and the vibrant atmosphere.
In the afternoon, we spontaneously organized a cooking workshop under the direction of Kristal Palace. Suzanne whipped up some collard greens, I made fish in banana leaf and mixed caipirinhas for the group, Charlie concocted plantain gnocchi garnished with basil and roasted cashew pesto. Everyone pitched in, chopping vegetables and squeezing limes.
Dinner featured the dishes we prepared, offering a true taste of our collective effort and the day’s culinary adventures.
Day 5: Artistic Exploration
Wednesday morning after breakfast, we kicked off with three workshops. Jocelyn Medina led the first one, helping everyone get in touch with their own voice. We all had fun trying out warm-up exercises and singing a Brazilian call and response song. Next, Marc Mommaas took over with a workshop on rhythm. He shared insights on how to understand rhythm and practice it using Indian vocalization methods called konokol. Then, Bahia’s own percussionist, Erica Sa’, joined us. She brought along various instruments like pandeiros, a bomba, a triangle, a cuíca, and a tamborim. Learning different rhythms and getting to try out each instrument was a blast.
Late in the morning, we ventured out to Pelourinho for a lunch at Cantina da Lua, which boasted a fantastic menu and a vast selection of cachaças. After our meal, we visited the Catedral Basilica de Salvador. The site’s original church, constructed by the Jesuits in 1585, was destroyed during the Dutch invasion. The construction of the current church began in 1657, featuring a façade of lioz sandstone imported from Portugal, and its chapels adorned with wood-carved altars covered in gold leaf. Following our visit to the church, we stopped by a music store where Jocelyn acquired a bomba drum. Then, we were off to see a performance by Bale Folclórico da Bahia. Their martial arts dancing, a form developed by African slaves, was thrilling, the performance included also a beautiful homage to the Orishas, (Brazilian deities from the Yoruba tradition), which I found deeply moving. We concluded our day with dinner at a local restaurant before heading back to ICBIE.
Day 6 – Modern Art Museum and Grafiteiros
After breakfast, we headed to the Museum of Modern Art (MAM) to check out the contemporary Bahian art on display. From there, we took a stroll to Solar do Unhão and through an old favela, which was alive with vibrant street art created by local “grafiteiros.” For lunch, we stopped at a bar owned by a grafiteiro with ties to ICBIE, Julian. The place, called A Novidade Solar, offers a stunning view of the bay. Post-lunch, we visited a local luthier who showcased his beautifully crafted handmade guitars, followed by a trip to a music shop where we picked up some gorgeous pandeiros. We returned to ICBIE for dinner. To cap off the evening, we went to Bar Velho Espanha, enjoying a great meal and the opportunity to watch Tarcísio Santos and his incredible Quinteto Brasileiro perform. Jocelyn got to sit in with the band.
Day 7 – Free Day and Party
On our last day, we chose to unwind at the stunning Praia do Flamengo. It was a day well spent with swimming, lounging under umbrellas, and exploring artisanal jewelry, hammocks, cashews, and fabrics offered by beach vendors. We savored the food and drinks, strolled along the beach, and engaged with the locals.
Post-lunch, we made our way back to ICBIE to gear up for the final evening party they had organized in our honor. The night was made special with a sumptuous dinner prepared by Krystal Palace, followed by a roda de capoeira performance. The musical evening continued with performances by Marc Mommaas, Tarcísio Santos, and Jocelyn Medina. Flavia Nunez also took the stage, enchanting everyone with her beautiful voice. Although Charlie couldn’t perform due to the absence of a drum kit, it was a reminder for better planning next time. Personally, I opted not to bring my sax, feeling a bit shy in the presence of the superb sax player, Marc Mommaas.
After the concert, we mingled with the Ribeira community who had come out for our concert, chatting and enjoying drinks into the early hours.
Day 8 – Departure
After breakfast, we took the time to say our goodbyes, expressing our gratitude to Roy, Marlene, and Krystal for their incredible hospitality. We left with promises to return soon
If you wish to study Brazilian music in New York or Brazil do not hesitate to contact the New York Jazz Workshop. We offer weekly Brazilian music classes, Summer Intensives and trips and workshops to Brazil and other destinations.
Marco Chelo is a co-founder of the New York Jazz Workshop, bringing together his love for music and his skills in entrepreneurship. He was born in Milan, grew up in Rome, and moved to New York City in 1995. Marco has a diverse background that includes running a travel agency franchise, starting a web development agency, and establishing the New York Jazz Workshop music school. He also enjoys sailing and has traveled from New York to the Caribbean on his small sailboat “Aeolus”.
Throughout his career, Marco has been driven by his passions for creating and managing businesses. His work with the New York Jazz Workshop has provided a platform for jazz lovers to learn and grow, reflecting his commitment to music education. Marco’s sailing adventures show another side of his adventurous spirit and love for exploring new horizons.
Today, Marco continues to be involved in music and sailing and travel, always looking for new challenges and ways to combine his interests.”